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Painting
Below is an ever-growing list of painting ideas and recommendations for our Eylau Sequence sci-fi miniatures. Because MGVs can appear with either metallic or live camouflage – or both – there is literally no limit when it comes to painting options. In the background of some photos may appear various types of terrain from the Invisible Enemy rules for MGV combat.

2016 Update: With numerous new MGV models being released in 3D printed plastic, the painting instructions will change somewhat - and those who have looked at the latest paint schemes will notice many new patterns. Also, Citadel has again changed the names of their paints, I will be updating those also. The main painting step to add is starting off by painting the model silver, and for that I use Citadel Stormhost Silver. The sepia wash is now called Seraphim Sepia, which I use rather heavily. For now the latest painting schemes can be seen on the More Info pages in the store catalog, many of which use variations of the methods explained below. At the bottom of this page are also new mounting instructions which apply to all new releases.


Silver/Sepia Scheme
This scheme starts off with a base color of silver, with two layers of Citadel Gryphonne Sepia laid down over the top. The first layer of sepia is a light, overall coverage. The second layer is heavier and used to highlight key features. Selective use of a black wash between the two sepia washes can help to highlight crevices and joints. On the Chameleon units, a popular thing to do is "stripe" them with the second layer of sepia wash. When doing this, make sure to wash only one side at a time, otherwise the stripes will run. The MGVs shown above are Californian L35 "Chameleons" and L63 "Whiptails."
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Red/Black Tiger Stripe Scheme
Click to view the K817 Blue This color scheme starts off with a base color of Copper, with a heavy wash of Citadel Baal Red. After drying, each side is given a second wash in Badab Black. When applying the black wash, first even coat one entire side and then use the side of the slightly wet brush to dab along the length of the model, creating fine "lines" of black wash on the main coat. Setting the model on its side to dry, the lines will disperse slightly into the rest of the wash - but not entirely. You can control how sharp or dispersed the "stripes" are by varying drying time and wetness of brush. The models shown at left are K817 "Blue" medium MGVs (All Selangor built MGVs are code named after sharks; Blue, Thresher, Blacktip, etc.).
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Gold/Tan/Brown Camouflage
More of a true camouflage, this starts with a base layer of gold. Then use two or three camouflage colors like Sand, Olive Drab and Dark Brown, mixing each color with gold paint before applying it. Mixing the camouflage colors with gold before painting them on blends them in with the base color better, giving a more natural look. Wrapping it up with a light to medium wash of Citadel Thraka Green helps blend all the colors into a cohesive pattern. The model shown at left is an AU8 "Sarrisa."
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Gold/Blue/Black Camouflage
This is a more unusual and vivid camouflage, which starts with a base coat of gold. Applying a wash of Citadel Asurmen Blue over the gold, and then apply lines of "camouflage" using black wash. The black wash camouflage can take any of a number of forms, from heavy branch-like capillary patterns to a more vertical set of variously intersecting lines. In the EU11 Mace shown here, the lower half of the hull has been painted black, with extra blue wash used to blend the upper and lower hull sections. The models shown above are EU11 "Mace" and EU12 "Falcata." In the background of the rightmost picture are two Californian MGVs.
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Bronze with Desert Yellow/Mud highlights
Shown here applied to a J90 Python, this scheme begins with a base coat of bronze. Highlight the hull features with a drybrush coating of desert yellow, and finish with a wash of Citadel Devlan Mud.

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Mounting
The new plastic 3D printed MGV models are secured to their bases using precision ground steel pins, which assure both a repeatable, tight fit and great strength. The bases themselves are 3D printed plastic that is similar to acrylic and also very robust. All together, the model, base and connector pin make for a strong assembly (assembly to base is required).
The following assembly examples are without adhesives in order to clearly show the details. I typically use white glue, but any standard adhesive able to be used with acrylics should work.
The pins are 1mm diameter (approximately .04"), and the holes in the model and base are slightly larger to accommodate a snug pin fit. You may order a model without base (and pin) for use on your own bases, or for a slight extra fee we will configure a mount on the model that matches your needs. Custom mounts may include larger mounting holes to accommodate mass produced bases (warning; many mass produced bases have easily broken plastic connector pins).